The city of Tainan rises from the southwestern coastal plains of Taiwan. Less than two hours by High Speed Rail from Taipei and just 110 miles off the coast of mainland China which is a city of many names. Tainan is the country’s oldest city, and is often called The Birthplace of Taiwan. Let’s start your Tainan journey in the historic quarter of Anping.
台南市位於台灣西南部的沿海平原，若從台北搭乘高鐵，不到兩小時即可抵達台南，距離中國大陸沿岸僅110英里，是一座享負各種盛名的城市。台南是台灣最古老的城市，常被稱作是台灣的發展起源，那麼我們就從安平的歷史老街展開台南之旅吧。
In 1624 Dutch traders established a fort. Less than four decades later Chinese forces drove the Dutch from the island forever. Wander the fort’s ramparts, and the nearby ruins of a merchant house held together by banyan roots, the perfect metaphor for a city that embraces its past.
1624年，荷蘭商人在建起了堡壘，相隔還不到四十年，中國軍隊便將荷蘭勢力永遠逐出這座島上。漫步在堡壘城牆邊，以及鄰近的洋行遺址，盤根錯節的榕樹，與洋行緊密糾結，就像這座擁抱著過去歷史的城市最佳寫照。
Closer to the city center rises Chihkan Tower, Taiwan’s first official seat of power, and today, the keeping place of many of the city’s earliest records and treasures. Tainan is not just a city that preserves its history, this is a city that reveres traditions as well, especially the spiritual. With over 2000 temples and shrines, the temples are places where ritual and daily life intertwine, from residents quietly praying for guidance.
赤嵌樓鄰近市中心，是台灣第一個官方政權所在地，如今則保存了城內眾多早期的記錄和收藏；台南這座城市不只保存歷史，同時也尊重傳統，特別是精神層面的傳統。台南擁有兩千多座廟宇及聖壇，廟宇是宗教儀式與日常生活的重心，居民可靜靜在此祈求神明指引。
Although Tainan ceded its political power to Taipei well over a century ago, the city remains a powerhouse in one of life’s most important aspects, food! This is where the city’s Indigenous, Dutch, Japanese and Chinese heritages all come together. The best food here is found on the streets. Follow the aromas that drift through the city like the proud ghosts of past generations of Tainan cooks.
The servings are small and affordable, so you can try everything. Tainan is like one big travelling feast, which is why the city is also called, The City of Snacks! One of the best places to sample Tainan specialties, like its legendary oyster omelets, is at its markets. Tainan offers over two dozen night markets, but none quite compare to the sheer size, color and energy of the city’s favorite, the Flower Night Market.
雖然政權重心在一個多世紀前由台南移至台北，這座城市依然在一件生活大事上緊抓人民的心不放「美食」！這裡匯集了這座城市的在地、荷蘭、日式和中式傳統美食。在台南，最棒的美食都在街上，如同歷代台南總鋪師驕傲的精神一般，隨著城市內飄散的香味前進吧。
食物的份量小巧、價格實惠，讓人可以盡情地大快朵頤，遊台南就像經歷一場盛大的美食饗宴，難怪乎這座城市又稱為美食之都！想品嚐台南的特產美食，例如經典的蚵仔煎，夜市是最佳地點之一，台南有二十幾座夜市，但是論規模、多樣性及活力，沒有夜市能與台南最受歡迎的花園夜市媲美。
When it’s time to work off all those small eats, the city has plenty of places to stretch out. Lose yourself amid the bridges, pavilions and ancient trees of Tainan Park. Or, explore the ancient shipping channels and mangrove forests of Taijiang National Park, right in the city’s backyard. These wetlands are a poignant reminder that life is forever shaped by time and tide. They are a reminder too, that to endure, we sometimes need to bend a little in the stream. Which is why Tainan is also known as The Phoenix City. For despite its turbulent history, the city continues to rise as a proud custodian of the past, amid the swirling neon currents of today. Locals love to say, “Taipei is Taiwan’s pocket, but Tainan, is the country’s heart. “
享用美味的小吃後，若您想要消耗熱量，市內有許多地方可舒展筋骨，在台南公園的小橋、涼亭及老樹間放鬆身心，或是前往台南的後花園──台江國家公園，探索古老的航道及紅樹林；這些溼地深刻地提醒人們，生活的樣貌永遠隨時間和潮汐而改變，同時也提醒我們，要想屹立不搖，有時必須在逆境中能屈能伸，也因如此，台南又稱為鳳凰城。
儘管台南擁有一段動盪的歷史，在今日閃爍的霓虹燈洪流中，這座城市仍扮演著歷史掌門人的光榮角色。當地人常說雖然台北是台灣ㄟ落袋仔，不過台南才是全國ㄟ心。
Photo by Living+Nomads、Caffeine and Roses
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